How to Choose an Engagement Ring Diamond Shape: A Gemologist's Guide

The shape of the centre diamond sets the whole personality of an engagement ring. Before you think about carats or settings, it helps to know how each shape looks on the hand, how it sparkles and what it asks of the design. Here is how Ela Gabriel, a GIA Graduate Gemologist, walks clients through the choice in her Tel Aviv studio.

Round brilliant: maximum sparkle

The round brilliant is cut to return as much light as possible. It suits almost every setting, from a slim solitaire to a full pavé band, and it is the most forgiving shape if you want brilliance above everything else.

Featured piece: Round Diamond Double-Halo Engagement Ring – 0.82 ct

Oval: elegant and finger-lengthening

An oval shows a larger face than a round of the same weight and makes the finger look longer. Look at it in person: some ovals show a darker "bow-tie" across the middle, and a good gemologist will help you avoid a strong one. Ela's ELA Engagement Ring sets an oval on a three-row diamond pavé band.

Featured piece: ELA Engagement Ring

Cushion: soft and romantic

Cushion cuts have rounded corners and a vintage feel. They look beautiful in a bezel setting, like the Marva Engagement Ring, where gold wraps the stone and protects its edges.

Featured piece: Marva Engagement Ring

Emerald and asscher: clean, architectural lines

These step cuts trade sparkle for long flashes of light and a calm, glassy look. Because they show the inside of the stone clearly, clarity matters more here than with brilliant cuts.

Featured piece: Emerald-Cut Solitaire Engagement Ring

Dreaming of an emerald or asscher cut? Design it with Ela on WhatsApp

Marquise, pear and hexagon: for something different

Pointed and fancy shapes feel modern and personal. Points should always be protected by a prong or a bezel. Fancy cuts such as a hexagon are a signature of Ela's Balloon Ring.

Featured pieces: Pear Diamond Halo Engagement Ring and Ruby Ring with Marquise Diamonds

Three tips before you decide

• Try shapes on your own hand. Photos rarely show how a shape sits on a finger.

• Decide on shape first, then size. The same carat weight can look very different from shape to shape.

• Ask for the grading report, and ask the gemologist to explain it in plain words.

Design your ring with Ela

Every engagement ring is made to order. Send Ela a message on WhatsApp at 050-855-7799 with the shape you love, and she will guide you through stones and settings.